Aspar

Indonesia
Sport Climbing
24 Jan 1988
35
Male
1.65/5'5''

Events and Medals

Discipline Event Rank Medal
CLB Sport Climbing Men's Speed Relay
INA
Indonesia
 2 Silver Medal

Schedule

Change
Start Time Location Event Status
Shaoxing Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre
Men's Speed Relay Qualification
Finished
Shaoxing Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre
Men's Speed Relay Quarterfinal Heat 1
Finished
Shaoxing Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre
Men's Speed Relay Semifinal Heat 1
Finished
Shaoxing Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre
Men's Speed Relay Gold Medal Match
Finished

Biographical Information

Highlights

:
RankEventYearLocation
Asian Games
2Men's Speed Relay2018Indonesia
3Men's Speed2018Indonesia
World Championships
6Combined (B+L+S)2012Paris, FRA
9Men's Speed2014Gijon, ESP
14Men's Speed2023Bern, SUI
19Men's Speed2012Paris, FRA
91Men's Lead2012Paris, FRA
97Men's Bouldering2012Paris, FRA
World Cup (Ranking)
6Men's Speed2018
9Men's Speed2022
11Men's Speed2019
11Men's Speed2017
18Men's Speed2021
37Combined (B+L+S)2019
39Combined (B+L+S)2017
69Men's Lead2018
World Cup
1Men's Speed2022Jakarta, INA
1Men's Speed2018Wujiang, CHN
2Men's Speed2018Xiamen, CHN
2Men's Speed2018Chongqing, CHN
2Men's Speed2017Xiamen, CHN
2Men's Speed2017Wujiang, CHN
3Men's Speed2022Chamonix, FRA
3Men's Speed2019Moscow, RUS
4Men's Speed2018Tai'an, CHN
7Men's Speed2023Seoul, KOR
9Speed2021Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
9Men's Speed2021Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
9Men's Speed2019Chamonix, FRA
10Men's Speed2022Seoul, KOR
11Men's Speed2023Salt Lake City, UT, USA
11Men's Speed2019Chongqing, CHN
13Men's Speed2018Moscow, RUS
14Men's Speed2023Chamonix, FRA
15Men's Speed2023Jakarta, INA
15Men's Speed2019Wujiang, CHN
17Men's Speed2022Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
20Men's Speed2023Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
28Men's Speed2019Xiamen, CHN
30Men's Lead2018Wujiang, CHN
39Men's Speed2017Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
53Men's Lead2019Inzai, JPN
53Men's Lead2019Xiamen, CHN
77Men's Bouldering2019Chongqing, CHN
81Men's Speed2019Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
83Men's Bouldering2019Wujiang, CHN
88Men's Bouldering2019Moscow, RUS
94Men's Lead2019Villars-sur-Ollon, SUI
109Men's Lead2019Chamonix, FRA
113Men's Bouldering2019Meiringen, SUI
Asian Championships
3Men's Speed2022Seoul, KOR
3Men's Speed2018Kurayoshi, JPN
3Men's Speed2017Tehran, IRI
3Men's Speed2014Indonesia
3Men's Speed2013Tehran, IRI
6Men's Speed2016Duyun, CHN
7Men's Speed2015Ningbo, CHN
13Combined (B+L+S)2018Kurayoshi, JPN
18Men's Bouldering2013Tehran, IRI
32Men's Lead2018Kurayoshi, JPN
37Men's Bouldering2018Kurayoshi, JPN
:
Babon ["My seniors at the Tadulako University gave me the nickname. Babon is the king of primates, they said somehow it fitted my behaviour."] (Adnan Buchari YouTube channel, 25 Jul 2020)
:
Athlete
:
Wife Mudji Mulyani, daughter Putri Anjani [2017]
:
English, Indonesian
:
Aspar Jaelolo Climbing Club [Donggala, INA]
:
Hendra Basir [national], INA
:
His wife Mudji Mulyani has represented Indonesia in sport climbing. She also won three bronze medals competing in obstacle course racing at the 2019 South East Asian Games in the Philippines. (SportsDeskOnline, 19 Dec 2022; Muzi Mulyani Instagram profile, 01 Oct 2022, 04 Dec 2019; sport, 19 May 2018)
:
In late 2019 he injured the flexor tendon in his right middle finger and required surgery. He needed around a year to recover. (akurat, 04 Nov 2022; liputan6, 26 Sep 2022; Planet Climber YouTube channel, 05 Jun 2020)
:
He took up the sport in 2007. He initially competed in lead, and later began competing in speed after progressing quickly in the discipline. (Adnan Buchari YouTube channel, 25 Jul 2020; FPTI Official YouTube channel, 13 Aug 2018)
:
He was introduced to sport climbing when he joined an outdoor activities group at Tadulako University in Indonesia. "Back then I was more into nature and outdoor activities. I got into the sporting side during preparation for a provincial tournament." (FPTI Official YouTube channel, 13 Aug 2018; CNN Indonesia YouTube channel, 07 Mar 2018)
:
To compete at the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. (Instagram profile, 18 Dec 2022)
:
Winning a gold medal at the 2014 World Extreme Games in Shanghai, People's Republic of China. (Instagram profile, 13 Nov 2022; Adnan Buchari YouTube channel, 20 Mar 2021)
:
Russian sport climber Stanislav Kokorin. (Facebook page, 14 Nov 2022)
:
His parents. (CNN Indonesia YouTube channel, 07 Mar 2018)
:
"Dare to dream, develop yourself and work hard." (Facebook profile, 15 May 2018)

Additional Information

General
RETIREMENT PLAN
He intends to retire from competition after the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. "Coach Hendra Basir encouraged me to return to training [after recovering from a finger injury sustained in 2019]. He told me if I could still be competitive, I would be allowed to stay with the national team to try to qualify for the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. I will be 36 then, so I'm careful with my training and recovery. I wish to retire after the Games. I hope I can win a gold medal and then retire happily." (akurat, 04 Nov 2022)

CLUB FOUNDER
In 2019 he had a climbing wall constructed in Donggala, Indonesia, where he has since established Aspar Jaelolo Climbing Club. "I built the facility from the bonus I got at the 2018 Asian Games. I built a climbing wall in my village. Many kids there want to become national athletes. I have resigned from the DKI Jakarta training centre. Personally, I think it would be better for me to return to my hometown and develop the sport there. Recently [speaking in 2022] there were 20 kids who came from Central Sulawesi province to Jakarta. All of them stayed at my home for three months and trained with my wife." (truestory, 07 Oct 2022; wartainfo, 07 Aug 2021; fpti, 20 Feb 2019; liputan, 13 Feb 2019)

CAREER CHOICE
In 2011 he decided to leave his law studies at Tadulako University and moved to Jakarta, Indonesia, to pursue a career in sport climbing. "I'm very grateful for my parents, who allowed me to pursue the sport. They were very kind that I was allowed to stop studying during my seventh semester, I mean I was one or two semesters away from graduation. They told me, 'So be it, just be serious and take good care of yourself in Jakarta'. In 2011 and 2012 I spent time training with the East Java and West Java team before settling in Jakarta. I did manage to study at a university in Jakarta, but it only lasted for two semesters." (Facebook profile, 24 Oct 2022, 24 Oct 2021; Adnan Buchari YouTube channel, 25 Jul 2020; CNN Indonesia YouTube channel, 07 Mar 2018)

OCCUPATION
He has worked as a civil servant at the Ministry of Youth and Sports in Indonesia. (Adnan Buchari YouTube channel, 20 Mar 2021; liputan, 13 Feb 2019)

Legend
:
Silver Medal
:
Gold Medal Event
:
Silver Medal Event
:
Bronze Medal Event